In order to use luxury watches for a long time, Overhaul is indispensable.
Why is it said that luxury watches are for a lifetime? This is because it is built up differently from low-priced products, but on the other hand, it requires regular maintenance.
And Overhaul is exactly "full maintenance". The internal machine is disassembled and cleaned, and the disassembled parts are inspected and replaced as necessary. Reassemble the machine in a clean state and lubricate it with new lubricating oil to prevent parts from wearing out.
With a skilled technician Overhaul it well, the watch will keep running smoothly and steadily again.
First, open the back cover of the case to disassemble the parts.
Most current models are waterproof, which means they have a fairly complex structure, with screw-backs or an inner case underneath a snap-in case.
Therefore, even though it is still in the preparation stage, careful work using specialized equipment is required.
After opening the back cover and removing the movement, the exterior parts are then disassembled.
Bezel disc, bezel plate, gasket, etc. are all carefully checked for scratches and corrosion on the exterior as the work proceeds. When disassembling the exterior parts, the crown is first removed, but once the movement is placed on a special base, it is reinstalled. When placing it on the base, the dial side is facing up, and after removing the fixing screws, the hands and dial are removed with tweezers. The hands and dial are delicate, and even the slightest friction can cause scratches. Great care is taken to never touch the surface of the dial.
Now we can finally begin disassembling the movement.
After removing the calendar disc (for models with a date display) and the wheels that hold the hands, turn the movement over and disassemble the rotor on the back cover, the various gears that transmit the rotor's movement to the mainspring, and the balance wheel, which can be said to be the heart of the watch.
Just like the exterior, we inspect the condition of the parts and replace them if necessary, but this is done in a world where precision is measured in millimeters! However, our skilled technicians make full use of magnifying glasses and microscopes to ensure that no deterioration or damage is overlooked.
Did you know that a clock is the heart of the balance, which is about the thickness of a hair, and the balance spring expands and contracts to keep the exact time? This balance spring is the most important part of the watch, but it tends to be extremely vulnerable to shocks and temperature changes. For example, it gets tangled or the length changes depending on the environment. Therefore, when Overhaul, check the condition of the balance spring and make corrections and fine-tunes as necessary.
A watch that does not have a properly adjusted balance will never produce the correct accuracy. Overhaul This is the place where the engineer's skills are shown.
Once the parts are disassembled, each one is thoroughly cleaned.
It's a big mistake to think that simply subjecting a watch to ultrasonic cleaning is enough! This is because many parts have intricate structures, and the movement's lubricating oil is stubborn due to its high performance. If old oil remains stuck to the parts, it will cause rust and corrosion.
Therefore, technicians carefully pre-wash the parts by hand using soft brushes. This pre-washing process, of course, requires skilled hands, as delicate parts are involved. After pre-washing and ultrasonic cleaning, the parts are thoroughly blown away with warm air.
The assembly of the movement requires even more careful manual work than disassembly and a high level of technical skill.
Each brand's movement is meticulously designed and constructed with a calculated arrangement and position. Even a difference in the position of just one part can change the movement's performance. At the same time, quick work is required to prevent dust and moisture from interfering with the movement.
By the way, the position of the artificial ruby and the order in which the gears are installed must all be done accurately.
We also apply the necessary oil to the parts as we assemble them.
Once the movement is assembled, check its accuracy in that state.
Using a special step measurement device, we will measure the daily difference, swing angle, single swing, and vibration frequency. By the way, the daily difference is the deviation of the day, the swing angle is the angle of contact of the balance wheel that makes up the balance, the swing is the deviation from the center of the balance vibration, and the frequency is the number of vibrations per second of the balance.
If you have not performed Overhaul, the daily difference may be significantly off, or the swing angle may not be enough at all than the specified value.
Once we have confirmed that there are no problems with the rate measurement, we can finally attach the dial and hands.
Just like assembling the movement, even the slightest misalignment or distortion is not permitted.
Once all the needles have been attached, the technician will visually inspect them from the side to ensure that they are parallel to each other, that they are not interfering with each other, and that the needles are attached in the correct order.
If the installation is not done properly, even a slight vibration or impact could cause the needle to shift or even come off.
The process of placing the movement in a case is called casing.
Once the dial and hands are attached, the casing is put back together to restore the face. Naturally, this installation must be done carefully to avoid any misalignment or distortion.
After casing, we will check the accuracy again. A watch that has been Overhaul well will keep the time firmly again. At this time, the balance part is adjusted as needed.
Once the Overhaul is complete, close the back cover securely as it was when it is used with a special device.
If this closing process is neglected, it will lose waterproofing and lead to dust and moisture entering the interior.
The air pressure test thoroughly checks the waterproofness. Waterproofness is an essential specification for everyday use. The technician remains vigilant at the end of the Overhaul and does not let go of the rigorous checks.
In the air pressure waterproof inspection, the airtightness is confirmed by high and low pressure. If it does not meet the standards, is the packing deteriorated? The cause of the case is thoroughly investigated, such as whether it is sealed.
Using special tools, bracelets and straps are attached to cases. This is a time-consuming process that can easily be damaged by an inexperienced worker, but in the hands of a skilled technician, it can be done carefully and quickly.
Overhaul is complete, and there is no problem with the gait or waterproofing! From there, we will further check if there are any problems with the operation and function. Specifically, it is an important task for the technician to check whether there are any problems with using the crown to match the time and switch dates. Even if there are no problems with the operation, it will be set on the winding machine for about a week, then a running check will be performed, and the step meter will be put on the meter again before returning.
You can see how thorough the check system is in place