How to choose a leather belt

When you're replacing your watch strap, which brand do you choose?

It's not necessarily true that "the manufacturer's original strap is the best." Also, it's not always necessary to have the manufacturer replace it.
The leather belt industry has seen a surge in specialized leather manufacturers. They offer a range of affordable options, including colors and specifications not found in genuine parts. Being able to switch out these diverse belts, just like changing clothes or accessories, can make everyday life more enjoyable.

For all watch enthusiasts, we'll show you how to choose the right leather strap and how to easily change it.

Belt name

POINT

Spring bar

Many watches use "spring bars" to connect the case and the strap. These consist of a spring (cooling element) encased in a cylindrical metal casing with protrusions at both ends. The spring bar is placed in the strap, and the protruding protrusions are inserted into the corresponding holes in the watch case lugs to connect them.

How to choose a belt

When purchasing a watch strap, the most important thing to consider is the "size." Since the lug width varies depending on the case volume, accurate size measurement is essential to choose the right strap. A strap that is too large can cause damage and scratches, while one that is too loose will be unstable. We will explain how to measure your watch correctly.

1. Measuring lug width

  • The width between the lugs attached to the case determines the strap's mounting width. Straps that do not match these widths cannot be used. Measure the distance from end to end of the part where the strap will be attached using calipers or a ruler.

    Please note that some watches, such as those with unique lug shapes, may not be compatible with straps other than the original.

    Learn more

    Additionally, if the lugs are small and the belt attachment width is narrow, it may be difficult to replace or install the strap yourself.

    Learn more

2. Measure the width of the buckle (D-buckle).

If you plan to use the buckle that came with your purchased belt, or if you are purchasing a D-buckle along with it, you do not need to measure this item. However, if you are using a manufacturer's original buckle or a D-buckle you have been using, please measure the size. Measure the width of the part that holds the belt using calipers or a ruler.

3. Choose a belt.

Based on the width (size) measured above, select a belt.

You select the size based on the lug width and buckle width, but sometimes you'll see notations like "20-18" or "22-20". In this case, the first number represents the lug width, and the second number represents the buckle width.

■Example 1: "20-18": Lug width 20mm / Buckle width 18mm

■Example 2: "22-20": Lug width 22mm / Buckle width 20mm

It can be interpreted in this way.

Please check this information and choose the matching belt. If you have a belt you like but it's not the perfect size, choose a size 1mm larger.

Choosing a belt

Differences depending on the type of belt

Each belt material has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the best fit varies from person to person. Here are four representative belt materials.

  • Leather belt (made of leather)

    A classic choice for watch straps. Made from traditional, bio-derived materials, it has been used by people of all ages and in a variety of situations.

  • Bracelet

    Made by connecting metal plates called "links," this is a classic belt material, second only to leather.

  • Rubber belt

    Rubber bands. Because they are durable and long-lasting, many brands have included them in their product lines in recent years.

  • Nylon belt (fabric)

    This belt is highly functional and fashionable, utilizing materials such as nylon, which are also used in clothing.

Here's a summary of four representative belt materials, highlighting their characteristics, advantages, and disadvantages!

Leather belt Bracelet Rubber belt Fabric belt
Comfort ◎ Lightweight and flexible. It conforms easily to your wrist and won't tire you out even if you wear it all day. It has a substantial weight, and some people may find it tiring to wear at first. ◎ Lightweight, second only to leather. Yet durable, but its close-fitting nature can cause it to become stuffy with sweat. It's extremely lightweight and offers an excellent fit, so you won't feel tired even after wearing it for extended periods.
design ◎ It has a luxurious feel, and its greatest appeal is the unique texture derived from natural materials. You can also enjoy the carefully designed details such as the colors, stitching, finish, and decorations. ◎ The design is versatile enough to match both suits and casual wear, while also offering the luxurious feel unique to metal. The colors and designs are diverse. Because they tend to be more casual and sporty, their use may be limited to certain occasions. It has a completely different texture from leather or rubber, and is characterized by its casual feel. With a wide variety of colors and designs, it's easy to enjoy fashion with it.
Disadvantages They have a limited lifespan. Also, they are susceptible to sweat and water, and neglecting maintenance can lead to deterioration and unpleasant odors. ◎ While they are long-lasting, they are prone to scratches, and these can be noticeable depending on the finish. They also carry a risk of metal allergies. It's sturdy, but prone to cracking and tearing. Also, it surprisingly attracts dirt easily, so regular maintenance is essential. It's too casual and unsuitable for important business occasions or formal events. Furthermore, it lacks a sense of luxury.
Leather belt Bracelet Rubber belt Fabric belt
Fit ◎ △ 〇 〇
design ◎ ◎ 〇 〇
Durability × ◎ 〇 〇

Points to note about belts

Besides size, there's one more thing to keep in mind when choosing a watch strap: some brands and models are not compatible with third-party (aftermarket) straps. In most cases, only the original strap can be used with these watches. Here are some examples of watches where straps cannot be attached.

Examples of lug shapes that cannot be installed

  • AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak

    The case and lugs are integrated, making it impossible to use most third-party straps.

  • Hublot Big Bang

    This model also features a unique construction where the case and lugs are integrated, so it requires the original strap.

Applicable models

Bvlgari Diagono / Roger Dubuis Excalibur / Cartier Roadster / Franck Muller Vanguard / Vacheron Constantin Overseas / RICHARD MILLE

Compatible lug shapes.

Unless the lugs have an unusual shape, it's possible to change and attach the straps on most watch brands and models. Even with bracelet-type models, it may be possible to change the strap in some cases.

  • Omega Railmaster

    Even with a bracelet-type watch, as long as the lugs have sufficient width for attaching a belt, as shown in the picture, you can attach your favorite belt.

  • Breguet Aeronavale

    Unless the lugs are of a special type, you can enjoy a variety of straps with most watches.

Even if the lug shape is standard, there are cases where only the original strap can be used, or where the available straps are limited, such as when the distance from the case to the lug holes is short.

  • FRANCK MULLER Tonneau Curvex

    As shown in the image, if there is insufficient space between the case and the lug holes, you may not be able to attach your preferred strap. This is because the thickness of the strap may not fit.

  • Breguet Classic

    As shown in the image, watches with ample space between the case and the lug holes can be fitted with most straps.

If the belt size is wrong...

  • If the strap size is too small for the lug width, the spring bars will be visible, making it look unsightly, and the case will not be properly secured.

  • A belt that is the perfect size for the lug width will look good and provide good stability.

Attention

You cannot use a strap that is too wide for the lug width. Forcing it on and continuing to use it can cause the strap to wear out quickly or the spring bar to come loose, potentially causing the watch to fall.
A narrow strap can be attached to the lug width. However, if the strap is too narrow, it may slide sideways, causing the spring bar to move with it and potentially detach from the watch case. To avoid this risk, choose a strap size that fits snugly to the lug width.

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